Roof Rafters The cabin takes shape

When we disassembled the Hollister chicken coop, we got a bunch of beautiful old 1x12 redwood siding, a shitton of corrugated metal, a handful of old dimensional redwood 2x4s, and finally, a dozen or so roof rafters, complete with birdsmouths.

True they were old and some were a little worse for wear, rotted at the ends or showing signs of termites, but most were quite usable.

This is an awesome diagram with much of what you need to know about roofs in general. Terms youll need for our shantyboat roof are common rafter, ridgeboard, birdsmouth, eave, gable end and gable end stud, ladder, collar tie, and rafter tie (also called a ceiling joist).

I sorted the good rafters from the marginal. The usable but marginal ones I treated with CopperGreen Clear and cut off the bad parts.

Since our shantyboat is smaller than the original chicken coop, I cut the rafters down to size, decreasing the overall length as well as the length of the eaves. I carefully cut the angle where they met in the center and re-cut the angle of the birdsmouth.

I laid them out on the floor of the barn, and used a temporary plywood collar tie (leaving a slot at the top for the ridgeboard) to keep everything from going wonky while I struggled to secure them into place.

With some ridiculously awkward effort, I got the two end rafters up supporting the ridgeboard.

Then one by one, I installed each of the rafter pairs.

Finally, I added a permanent collar tie to each of the inside rafter.  I suppose soon I will have to add a ladder to support the gable overhang and a fly rafter.

At the end of the day, for the first time, I was able to see the shape and size and height of this crazy boat.

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Didi 950 Hulls Taking Shape

The Didi 950 projects of Fred Grimminck in Australia and Mike Vermeersch in USA continue in parallel. Freds build is from plans only and Mikes is from a kit that was cut by CNC router. Both have completed the flat sheet panels of the sides and bottom and are now skinning the radiused parts of their hulls. This is the stage that the hull shape really starts to show.

Some of the photos that I show of these two projects show minor differences, due to building from a pre-cut kit or with the builder cutting all components. Both produce the same boat at the end of the process but they may look a little different at times while being built.

Side and bottom panels all completed, ready for radius to start.

The photo above is of Mikes kit boat, with neat edges at the sheer (where hull and deck will meet). The photo below is of Freds boat with irregular edges at the sheer. This is because the kit panels are supplied with a uniform strip of waste to be trimmed off to the final line after turning the hull over, while the boat built without a kit has the panels inividually cut by the builder and the waste width may vary.

Same stage, Freds boat. Backbone still to be trimmed at forefoot.

The radius is skinned in two layers, made with narrow transverse strips. The first layer lies on the stringers and the doublers of the tangent stringers, fitted between the edges of the side and bottom panels. These edges have rebates pre-cut into them and onto which the second layer will be laid.

First layer of radius being fitted to Mikes boat.

The rebate along the edge of the side panel can be seen in this photo.

Final hull shape starting to become clear.

Construction of the boat in Latvia has now started and the boat in Greece will soon follow. To see more of this design and others in our stock design range, please visit http://dixdesign.com.

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